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Tweed de Chanel, Bulgaris movie-inspired Cinemagia, Van Cleef & Arpels Romeo & Juliet collection

It is in challenging times like these, when we are often faced with the choice of putting the value of some things above others, that we realise beauty, art and the uniquely human ability to create is what keeps us emotionally fulfilled and rich. We should never pressure ourselves into choosing to abandon beauty, because surrounding ourselves with our own imagination and that of our fellow creatives is what nurtures our hearts when times are tough.

In the world of jewellery, beauty is expressed in refinement and rarity. Uniqueness is the name of the game when it comes to high jewellery collections. The rarity of gems mean that it is impossible to replicate or produce these spectacular designs in large quantities.

How nature-inspired high jewellery from Chanel and Cartier

Themed collections from top jewellery houses tell stories beyond the gemstones they incorporate. Bulgari’s latest high jewellery collection, Cinemagia, dramatises the glamour of the movie world.

The pieces are inspired by the extravagance and opulence that we often associate with stars of the silver screen. The romance and drama of Italian filmmaking translates into statement necklaces and earrings created from bold arrangements of gems.

“In some films, an actress can play such a real, memorable and intense role that the character starts to live beyond the movie itself,” says Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s creative director. “The same can happen in the world of jewellery: sometimes, there is an extraordinarily rare gemstone with an inner glow that can’t be found twice in nature. Its uniqueness defines the entire character of a design.”

Inspired by fantasy worlds, pieces from the collection, such as the Emerald City necklace, named after the capital of the Land of Oz in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz, shine as bright as those who star in pictures. Featuring a 21.49-carat emerald flanked by diamonds and mother of pearl, it’s easy to understand why it would be impossible to create two of these necklaces.

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Statement necklaces are found in every high jewellery collection; their popularity lies perhaps in their ability to elevate a simple evening dress or to bring a sparkle to the face. Chanel’s latest high jewellery collection, Tweed de Chanel, features, among other pieces, several commanding necklaces that re-examine the way we perceive cold, hard gems.

Taking inspiration from the brand’s iconic tweed suits, Chanel artisans weave gold and diamonds into designs that evoke the suppleness of the woollen fabric. The Tweed Couture and Tweed d’Or necklaces are examples of artisans enabling the imagination of designers.

While some like to tell stories in a more symbolic way, others choose to paint a full picture of beauty and love.

Van Cleef & Arpels uses gems and its goldsmithing know-how to recreate another great work of art, Shakespeare’s romantic tale of tragedy, Romeo and Juliet. Rubies, sapphires and diamonds are just some of the gems the house uses to tell this story. The jeweller uses emeralds and diamonds to create the Romeo & Juliet collection’s Balcone clip, which depicts one anchoring balcony scene in the play.

Van Cleef & Arpels not only creates the setting in which the two lovers meet, but has placed on the back of the clip, hidden from view, Romeo and Juliet in a loving embrace. It is often these hidden details found in high jewellery, reserved for the owner’s eyes only, that set these unique designs apart from everyday gem-set ornaments.

Looking to the heavens for inspiration, there is no lack of colour in Chaumet’s Les Ciels de Chaumet collection. It pays tribute to the skies, from stars, the sun and the moon, to adorable feathery creatures. Pieces that attempt to recreate the boldness of the sun bring together diamonds and spinels of different shades; the result is a brilliance that exudes the warm glow of the gems.

The collection plays further with colours, employing everything from black opals to chrysoberyl to create contrasts.

Van Cleef & Arpels lets ‘the lovers’ kiss at any time

While colourful gemstones are irresistible, it’s often difficult to compete against the sparkling brilliance of a white diamond, arguably the most desired gem. Boucheron’s latest Vendôme suit of necklace, bracelet and earrings shines brightly. And instead of creating dimension with colour, the maison chooses to do so with cut.

“I love this chevron motif that is both timeless and contemporary, classic and current, of great plastic beauty,” says Boucheron’s creative director, Claire Choisne. The chevron design is puzzled together using baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds of varying sizes. The result is a brilliance that sparkles at all angles.

Bright gems can bring a smile to our faces. When times are rough, what more can we hope for than small moments of joy?

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Reinaldo Massengill

Update: 2024-10-08